Japanese Leisure - The "Izakaya" - 居酒屋

In previous articles I had written about Japans working extremes; the workaholic lifestyle, subservience to superiors, the strenuous commutes and a life of urgency with little leisure time. But what of that leisure time? What is popular in Japanese leisure and what does it say about the Japanese?

For most of us and perhaps the world over, the best of times are spent sharing food and drinks with close friends in a warm and familiar environment: The local, down the pub, popping out for a quick one, going down the boozer, off for a few, a wee dram, a couple of jars, a swift one before home, bit of nosh and pint.

The Japanese counterpart can be immediately familiar yet so very different, the Izakaya -居酒屋 (transliterating as "reside-alcohol-shop")

As with many aspects of Japanese culture the Izakaya has been "kata" -ised, kata - 方meaning direction, or simply "the way things are done". As with martial arts, tea ceremony, calligraphy and ikebana (flower arranging) the act of going for booze up with friends has its organized "way of things" that most Japanese wouldn't notice as it has become so ingrained in their society.

Above all the most striking is the aspect of privacy.

The British "pub" traditionally "public house" is a place where fellow men and women rub shoulders, lift elbows and make merry. The UK has seen many variations on this traditional theme with style bars, theme bars, bistro's, disco's, etc many attempts have been made to separate the general drinking public from fellow camaraderie. Despite the changes in trends, there has always been a "communal" element; table service and partied exclusionary seating areas are established ideas in British drinking culture but conversations can be overheard and joined in on, acquaintances can be met unexpectedly; as the booze flows, as does conversation, drinking company can change i.e. a "quick drink after work with Emma and Jim" can easily evolve into a "we banged into Jerry and Sarah and ended up out on a bender"

The public element in Izakaya is most definitely "off the menu" opting for concealment and seclusion from the general public as opposed to the British "free house". While this may strike an image of lone Japanese men and women in cell like cubes sadly drinking their favorite tipple in solitude, this is not the case. As leisure time is a scarce commodity, friends will commonly arrange over ketai (mobile phone) mails up to a week or 2 weeks in advance. A location is decided upon harmoniously within the group in keeping with the traditional Japanese group mentality; frequently one group's meetings will circulate between establishments in rotation.

Personal company and attendees again keeps to the "wa" (和) ideas of harmony and uchi (内- inside / personal clique) ensuring that the company while being mixed to some extent, everyone has a connection through at least one or two members of the group. Just as in Britain you wouldn't invite your old pals from Borstel to go drinking with your Great Aunt Emily as it would cause an uncomfortable atmosphere, bringing a friend you had in elementary school to a meeting with your University friends would break up the harmonious feeling, though there are always exceptions.

Having been awkwardly sat at many occasions as the outsider in more than one sense as being the only foreigner, I've witnessed the more freestyle, non conformist members of a group bring friends that no one in the group knows; while the atmosphere was far from hostile or unwelcoming, there is a distinct "sore thumb" awkward feeling for the non "uchi" member of a group being introduced for the 1st time

With attendees and location decided, upon entering most Izakaya you will be prompted to remove your shoes and led to your table, not a table in an open space but more often a booth, in more faux traditional establishments (which most Izakaya are) the booth is separated by traditional paper doors (障子 - souji), woven bamboo or wooden sliding doors. The variations on booths seclusions can be a visual treat, with some Izakayas akin to warren like lowly lit caves and passages, with its inhabitants ensconced in their private "yoda"-esque clay huts. Once in the booth and at the table (which often will be a low to the floor) preferably everyone will sit on tatami (soft woven Japanese matting), cross legged style (足おくむ - ashiokumo)

All Izakaya in Japan are "table serviced" so there are no trips to the bar, in Britain a place where often the more interesting conversations, encounters take place. With a gusty shout of "sumimasen" (excuse me!) a waiter / waitress will rush to the table with a cry of "omateseiitashimashita" (I kept you waiting!) to take orders. Could you imagine this ever occurring in the UK?

As shouting sumimasen can become a rowdy affair there are a number of places with a touch bell systems to get attention or menu touch screens allowing clientele to order from the table, while convenient it can take away some of the charm of attracting staff's attention. Never to be kept waiting, calling for staff is almost kata-ised itself with its range of character and tones, with females going for the more cute, high pitched, child like "soo-mi-maseennn" with nasal twee to the rougher "soom-mas-EN" abrupt growl for males. Being a foreigner, my own "sumimasen" seem to fall on deaf ears; though on occasions when I get the pitch right and the staff come quickly, I get a "that was a good one, by the foreigner!" nodding of heads from the group.

With swift service and a privatized feel to your drinking partners (in two senses: being separated from strangers, even if it is by a bamboo weft screen and "private" company) the general air of drinking in an Izakaya is that of complete involvement in the act of relaxing, unwinding and satisfaction in close companionship. Drinking is always accompanied by dining, from smaller snack like foods, to a serves 12 tray of fresh sushi. In all cases, a variety of foods are always shared as with alcohol which is served from pitchers where it is an indiscretion to pour for yourself and pouring for others always comes first. Often a family dinner table feel is achieved, though mums drinking crème cassis and dads on sake, the passing of food to and from each other is punctuated by another Japanese habit; commenting on deliciousness of food. As a new dish arrives, conversation will turn immediately to a) how good it looks, followed by b) how tasty it is, c) how rumi-san had the best version of this dish when visiting Sendai and then the conversation will revert back to normal. If you're ever stuck for conversation with a Japanese person, talk about food; you'll be set for months of banter.

The family feel is usually the same throughout different groups. More thought of as a formal occasion, the "company night out", seniors assume a more fatherly role while juniors in the company hierarchy are the "cheeky young scamps", the usual facades of day to day decorum fall and by the end of the night hierarchy has been overtaken by the family feel, where talk can be perfectly open, risqué and challenging; far, far away from what would ever be said in the office.

While being outright offensive to your boss while drinking would have repercussions, one can bend the rules so much more when drinking in Japanese company nights out. Respectful and neutral monikers such as "anata" (you) and "san" (mister) can deteriorate into "omae" (oi ! YOU !) And "chan" (little/fond one) .Thankfully, things said while drinking are not to be raised again in the office and outside the context of drinking. So complaining about that guy in finance being a weirdo while he's within earshot won't start a tea break vendetta, it will be left for the next drinking session or disregarded.

With all nights out, rounding of the evening has its differences. While in Britain an evening would be finished off gorging your face on food, in Japan they've already spent most of the evening doing that while drinking. In Britain, while drinking could have been accompanied by karaoke publicly in a bar, many Japanese will round an evening off with a trip to Karaoke to sing in smaller private rooms. Lastly the best part of leisure time in Japan; while licensing laws are strict in UK at 12:30 when last orders are called, in Japan you can sit and scream "sumimasen" for sake and sushi till the first train at seven o clock in the morning.

Hokun lives, works, sleeps and drinks in Shibuya, Tokyo - he cant drink till seven anymore but is partial to sharing nibbles and beer with his pals in Ginza.